Vestal Vodka has done something genuinely revolutionary in the vodka world: they have applied the wine concept of terroir and vintage to spirit production. Each bottling is made from a specific potato variety, grown in a specific region, harvested in a specific year. The result is a range of vodkas that taste meaningfully different from one another — and from everything else on the market.
This 2013 vintage from Pomorze (Pomerania) uses Asterix potatoes, and the earthy, full-flavoured character of the tuber comes through clearly. The nose is genuinely exciting — earthy, rich, with a pronounced potato character and wet clay notes that scream terroir. You can practically smell the Polish soil.
On the palate, this is about as far from neutral vodka as you can get while still technically being vodka. Creamy potato richness, earthy minerality, and a depth of flavour that would not be out of place in a quality grappa or mezcal. The minimal distillation (just twice) and light filtration retain maximum character from the Asterix potatoes.
At £29.95 for 50cl, Vestal Pomorze is not cheap by volume, but it offers an experience that no other vodka can match. This is a sipping spirit, designed to be contemplated and discussed — ideally alongside other Vestal vintages, where the differences between potato varieties and growing regions become strikingly apparent. Essential for anyone who thinks vodka is boring.