Cossack Vodka is the sort of spirit that reminds you what vodka used to be before the category went premium. Produced by J&J Vickers on Goswell Road in London, this is a no-frills, higher-strength vodka that makes no pretence about sophistication.
At 43% ABV, it is noticeably hotter than standard 40% vodka, and the nose reflects this with a spirity, slightly raw quality. There is grain character underneath, but you have to get past the ethanol to find it. The palate is punchy and direct — grainy, slightly sweet, and with a burn that experienced vodka drinkers will find bracing rather than unpleasant.
This is mixing vodka through and through. In a Bloody Mary, the extra strength is actually an asset, and in a vodka and tonic it holds its own despite the modest price tag. Sipping it neat is for the brave or the stubborn.
At £12.75 for 50cl, Cossack is almost impossible to beat on value. It does the job, it does it cheaply, and it does it without pretending to be something it isn't. There is an honesty to that which deserves respect, even if the liquid itself is nothing special.
